How to:
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| Front | Rear |
| Long link | Long link |
| 3/16" plate | 2 x short links |
| 2 x draw pin | 2 x draw pin |
| a little welding | longer 1/2" grade 8 bolts |
| sawzall | 1/4" plate (or 3/16") |
Long link, goes across, from shocktower to shocktower:
(1 req for rear, 1 req for front)
speeco (mfr) stabilizer arm TSC # 02-6785 $29
One end is slightly bent up: a few whacks with a 3lb hammer will fix that. make it flat.
Shorter link, for diagonals:(2 req for rear bar)
These have heim joints.
Speeco # 010907000
TSC # 02-67733
this looked too short, but I think it's the right one.
$20 ea.
Draw pin: (for attaching/quick disconnect of SB front bar, bolts onto rear plate for attachment of diagonals)
Speeco # 070220000
TSC # 02-67806
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The heim joint bodys/loops on the links have to be clearanced for more angle, easily done by sticking a 1/2" drill bit in them and side cutting the angles. A tiny amount had to be ground off the edge as well on one end so they fit flat. All the links are adjustable for preload
For the shock attachment, I used longer 1/2" grade 8 bolts at the shock bolts, drilled out the shock bushings, piece of cake.
One still has to make a plate to attach to the frame horns. I made a full wrap around 1/4" plate (3/16" would be easier and just as strong IMHO) for the bellhousing, just under the clutch arm, bolts on<>starter, lower engine studs pass through. It doesn't move.
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The front requires some 3/16" plate, 2 pins, a little welding, and a sawzall.
All the links are adjustable for preload, and the front is a quick disconnect for tank removal etc. if you look close.
This is not remotely a lightweight setup, but one could probably tow a house with it. It does not move, and the hardest launches are wheel-hop free, only squat and scoot affairs.
Many thanks to Piledriver for sharing with us how to make a Kafer Brace.
| How-To's |
| Kafer Brace |
| Converting a Type 4 |