How to:
Make Your Own Kafer Brace

This page was last updated Tuesday, September 15, 2009

With the large amount of torque produced by the Type 4 engine and the need to get the power to ground has created a problem with the lowly Beetle. The Beetle merely suspended it's engine from the transaxle, with no other support. Now this worked fine when the engine produced at the most 60hp, but combine a 100hp Type 4 conversion (or more) with a heavy accelerator pedal (like mine), it becomes apparent that more support is needed for the engine to stay in one place.

"Piledriver" from the Shoptalkforums was generous to share how he solved this problem, and on a budget. Piledriver used parts from a tractor parts place to make his own bracing. Follow along with Piledriver as he describes how you can make your own.

I'd like to take this moment to let you know, that as you read this article realize that Piledriver's car has a Bus IRS transmission. This means that the pictures of his setup in the rear are going to look different than yours if you have a Type 1 trans in your Bug. This doesn't mean that these directions don't apply; they just won't be the exact same. Some modifications might/will be necessary.

I have edited the text and moved stuff around, but it was done for clarity. -- Tom

Intro

Written by "Piledriver"

I got the idea from someone on the forums a couple of years ago... Don't know if anyone else has tried it.

Only took an hour or two to make/install.. assuming you have a welder, drill, bits,sawzall / holesaw, etc. The materials cost about $100, total front brace & rear brace for a Super Beetle. A devious mind also helped. :-)

Tractor Supply Company's website is currently useless. You'll have to go to the store personally to get the right parts.

Parts

The parts we'll be using are typically called drag links, and are used for attaching mowers to tractors and such.

Long link, goes across, from shocktower to shocktower:
(1 req for rear, 1 req for front)
speeco (mfr) stabilizer arm TSC # 02-6785 $29
One end is slightly bent up: a few whacks with a 3lb hammer will fix that. make it flat.

Shorter link, for diagonals:(2 req for rear bar)
These have heim joints.
Speeco # 010907000
TSC # 02-67733
this looked too short, but I think it's the right one.
$20 ea.

Draw pin: (for attaching/quick disconnect of SB front bar, bolts onto rear plate for attachment of diagonals)
Speeco # 070220000
TSC # 02-67806

Rear Brace

The heim joint bodys/loops on the links have to be clearanced for more angle, easily done by sticking a 1/2" drill bit in them and side cutting the angles. A tiny amount had to be ground off the edge as well on one end so they fit flat. All the links are adjustable for preload

For the shock attachment, I used longer 1/2" grade 8 bolts at the shock bolts, drilled out the shock bushings, piece of cake.

One still has to make a plate to attach to the frame horns. I made a full wrap around 1/4" plate (3/16" would be easier and just as strong IMHO) for the bellhousing, just under the clutch arm, bolts on<>starter, lower engine studs pass through. It doesn't move.

Front Brace

The front requires some 3/16" plate, 2 pins, a little welding, and a sawzall.

All the links are adjustable for preload, and the front is a quick disconnect for tank removal etc. if you look close.

Conclusion

This is not remotely a lightweight setup, but one could probably tow a house with it. It does not move, and the hardest launches are wheel-hop free, only squat and scoot affairs.